Towering sea cliffs, ancient Ogham Stones, hidden beaches, and the chance to swim in the Atlantic make the walk from Dunquin to Cuas one of the most unforgettable stages of the Dingle Way. Each stage of the Dingle Way offers something completely different, but the walk from  Dunquin  to Cuas stands out for the way it blends dramatic coastal scenery with centuries of Irish history. From towering cliffs overlooking the Blasket Islands to ancient Ogham Stones hidden among rolling fields, this stage feels like a journey through both Ireland’s natural beauty and its past.

We set out beneath low clouds and a light mist that drifted across the peninsula throughout the day. While the weather never fully cleared, the soft rain only added to the atmosphere. The muted light softened the rugged coastline and gave the entire landscape an almost timeless feel. By the time we reached Cuas beneath the slopes of Mount Brandon, we had experienced another remarkable day on one of Ireland’s most remarkable long-distance trails.

Leaving Dunquin

The day begins with a steady climb out of Dunquin along a quiet country road before the trail transitions onto gravel tracks wrapping around the shoulder of An Ghráig. The uphill section is enough to warm your legs, but the expanding views quickly make the effort worthwhile.

Looking back, patchwork fields stretched toward the Atlantic while the Blasket Islands gradually emerged through the mist offshore. Dry-stone walls divided green pastures where sheep grazed alongside their lambs, each marked with bright splashes of paint identifying their flock. Nearby, black-and-white dairy cattle rested quietly in the fields, seemingly unfazed by the damp morning. The sounds of distant sheep, birds overhead, and the steady Atlantic breeze replaced the bustle of the village, making it easy to settle into the slower rhythm of the trail.

A Creative Pause at Louis Mulcahy Pottery

After descending back toward the road, the trail reaches one of its most unexpected stops: the Louis Mulcahy Pottery Workshop and Gallery.

Set against the rural backdrop of the peninsula, the studio provides a welcome opportunity to slow the pace. Inside, visitors can watch skilled potters throwing clay by hand before browsing shelves filled with beautifully crafted ceramics inspired by Ireland’s landscapes and coastline. Outside, colorful sculptures, handcrafted pottery, and artistic installations surround the workshop, making the gardens feel like an open-air gallery. 

After several hours on the trail, slowing down with a coffee from their cafe while watching artisans shape clay by hand felt like the perfect break before returning to the coastline.

Cliffs, Beaches, and Atlantic Views

Beyond the pottery studio, the trail returns to open grasslands before passing the sheltered beauty of Clogher Strand. From there, the scenery changes once again as the path climbs onto dramatic coastal headlands overlooking the Atlantic.

Dark cliffs plunge into the Atlantic, where centuries of wind and waves have sculpted a rugged coastline that seems to stretch endlessly toward the horizon. Despite the overcast skies, the landscape was remarkably colorful. Bright green grasses blanketed the cliff tops while blooming pink sea thrift and clusters of purple wildflowers lined the trail, adding vibrant contrast against the dark rock and gray sea.

This stretch of coastline also felt wonderfully alive. Seagulls and other seabirds soared effortlessly on the ocean winds while sheep grazed peacefully near the cliff edges. Every so often, curious Irish cobs (horses) wandered close to the trail, and grazing cattle rested quietly in the surrounding fields. Combined with the salty sea air and the constant sound of waves crashing below, it was one of the most timeless sections of the day’s hike.

A Cold Atlantic Dip at Béal Bán Strand

From there, the Dingle Way continues to follow the shoreline around Smerwick Harbour, crossing wide sandy beaches and open coastal flats. The broad bay creates a striking contrast to the rugged cliffs encountered earlier, offering sweeping views across calm water toward the surrounding hills. 

One of our favorite memories of the day came at Béal Bán Strand, located on the southern shoreline of the harbor. Here we decided to take a refreshing swim in the Atlantic.

The water was every bit as cold as expected, but after several hours of hiking it was also incredibly invigorating. Standing in the gentle surf with the green hills rising behind the beach became one of those simple travel moments we’ll always remember.

After our dip, we continued across the beaches. Low clouds drifted across the mountaintops while soft mist rolled through the valleys, giving the coastline a quiet, almost ethereal beauty that changed with every mile.

Standing Beside Ireland’s Ancient Ogham Stones

Leaving the beaches behind, the trail continues inland toward one of the peninsula’s oldest historical treasures: the Ogham Stones.

These upright stones, carved with some of the earliest known examples of written Irish, date back more than 1,500 years. Scholars believe they may have marked burial sites, territorial boundaries, or important ceremonial locations, although much about them remains uncertain.

Standing beside these ancient monuments while mist drifted across the surrounding fields made the experience even more atmospheric. And the silence around the stones somehow made them feel even older. Rather than sitting behind museum glass, the stones remain exactly where they have stood for centuries, quietly overlooking the landscape.  

Into the Shadow of Mount Brandon

Beyond Ballydavid, the Dingle Way follows another stretch of cliff walking before gradually turning inland. As the Atlantic slowly disappears behind you, Mount Brandon, Ireland’s second-highest mountain, begins to dominate the skyline.

The quiet country roads weave through peaceful farmland toward Cuas, where grazing sheep and cattle dot the rolling fields beneath the mountain’s broad slopes. Stone walls divided the countryside beneath Mount Brandon while low clouds clung to the mountainsides, creating a fitting finale to the day’s walk.

Final Thoughts

The walk from Dunquin to Cuas reminded us just how diverse the Dingle Way can be. In a single day, we crossed rolling farmland, paused at a working pottery studio, followed towering sea cliffs, wandered along quiet beaches, stood beside ancient Ogham Stones, and finished beneath the slopes of Mount Brandon. Every few miles, the landscape seemed to reveal something entirely new.

When we look back on this stage, it isn’t the distance we remember most. It’s watching seabirds soar effortlessly above the Atlantic, taking an icy swim in the crystal-clear waters of Béal Bán Strand, standing beside Ogham Stones that have watched over these fields for more than 1,500 years, and walking through a landscape where history and nature have remained inseparable for centuries. Those are the moments that stayed with us long after the hike was over.

If the previous stage introduced us to the wild beauty of the Dingle Peninsula, this one allowed us to slow down and appreciate its quieter side. By the time we reached Cuas, we weren’t simply finishing another day on the Dingle Way. We had spent the day exploring a landscape rich with history, shaped by the Atlantic, and filled with small moments we’ll remember long after leaving Ireland.